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Monk's Cloth<br />Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.<br />Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.<br />Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.<br />Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.<br /><br /><br />Nainsook<br />Fibre: Cotton<br />Weave: Plain<br />Characteristics: Produced in the finishing processes from the same gray goods as used for batiste, cambric, lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in the better qualities (mercerization). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colours and some printed.<br />Uses: tucked or embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.<br /><br /><br />Organdy<br />Fibre: Cotton.<br />Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.<br />Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.<br />Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.<br /><br /><br />Oxford<br />Fibre: Cotton - some in rayon.<br />Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1.<br />Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better qualities are mercerized. rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale.<br />Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear.<br /><br /><br />Percale<br />Fibre: Cotton<br />Weave: Plain<br />Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamsutta Mills.<br />Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets. <br /><br /><br />Pique<br />Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.<br />Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.<br />Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lengthwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first.<br />Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, coats, and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, play clothes, and evening gowns.<br /><br /><br />Plisse<br />Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and others. <br />Weave: Plain<br />Characteristics: Could be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.<br />Uses: Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinets. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).<br /><br /><br />Point d'esprit<br />Fibre: Cotton - some in silk.<br />Weave: Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh.<br />Characteristics: First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes. Has white or coloured dots individually spaced or in groups.<br />Uses: Curtains, bassinets, evening gowns.<br /><br /><br />Poplin<br />Fibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.<br />Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch.<br />Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high lustre. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.<br />Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.<br /><br /><br />Provence<br />Fibre:Cotton.<br />Weave: Plain<br />Characteristics:This is a typed style of printing which characterizes Provence, a French country.<br /><br /><br />Sailcloth <br />Fibre: Cotton, linen, nylon.<br />Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.<br />Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than used for sails.<br />Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men, women, and children. |
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